Homer to Whittier to Valdez (August 3)

In Alaska there are different degrees of beauty when it comes to the scenery.  The ride from Homer to Whittier has to be one of the best! 

 

This were I was really missing my Go Pro.  My oldest son, David, had given me a Go Pro last year as a retirement gift.  I hadn't had a chance to use it until this trip, but it died after one use.  I did call Go Pro, they walked me thru some stuff, eventually telling me the unit needed a 'hard reset' and they have emailed me the process in which to reset the camera.  But thumbs down to Go Pro based on its failure after only one use.

 

Here we pulled over for a bathroom break and a view of one of the many glaciers you will see along this road.

More incredible views...

 

We arrived in at 'The Whittier Tunnel', which is the tunnel you need to go thru to get to Whittier and the ferry, which will take us to Valdez.

Traffic in line waiting to go thru the tunnel...

Here's the entrance to The Whittier Tunnel...

So, the tunnel operates on a choreographed system, whereby trains, trucks, cars, and motorcycles proceed thru to the other side.  Motorcycles go last, because if they catch a tire in the train tracks and 'go down', they don't want the tunnel to get shut down, with a line up of cars and trucks waiting for the bike wreckage to be cleared. 

 

Officially, it is know as The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel and is the longest highway tunnel in North America, at 2.5 miles.

 

I stole the next 2 pics off the net, as you can not stop in the tunnel, and need to concentrate, as you are riding for 2.5 miles, in-between the rail tracks.  It is only a couple of feet wide between the tracks and you definitely do not want to catch a tire in the tracks... 

This is an accurate view of what you see as you proceed down the tunnel.  The ironic thing is, when you get closer to the end of the tunnel, and you see 'the light at the end of the tunnel'...it actually IS a train!!!  I thought that rather funny as I approached the end.  You then exit the tunnel and when the bikes are clear, the train proceeds...

After we exited the tunnel, it was straight to the ferry, to board, for the trip to Valdez.  Once in, they waste no time closing the ramps.  You need to get your bike tied down ASAP, then they clear the area, and move everyone upstairs.

I had to scramble to make the ferry.  We arrived close to boarding time and I had to remove my Rotopax gas container and reorganize my bags.  We did make it and here's a pic of me after I got the bike all tied down.  It was actually a very smooth ride, didn't really need the tie downs, but better safe than sorry!

Scott's GS and another bike all tied down and secure for the ride.

View after we left Whittier

The cool air felt good.  We had been riding in warmer temps and with our gear on it can get warm.  The open air on the ferry felt great!

I was surprised at how few people were on this ferry.  Maybe 20 or so.  Not sure how they make a profit, unless it's subsidized by the state.

The MV Aurora

I was pretty tired, so went up to the lounge, fell asleep for about 3 hours, and woke to looking out the windows at this...The Fog (wasn't that a horror movie?).  You literally could not see at all beyond the bow of the ship!  Talk about IFR!!!

Then the fog broke and this is what we came out of...

Solid wall of fog...

Coming into Valdez we saw a number of oil tankers heading out of the sound.

Here's the Valdez oil facility.

 

Pulling into Valdez.

Once the door drops, we are out in seconds.

 

We are in Valdez now and this is our route since leaving Scott's, in Idaho.

Once off the ferry, it was off to find a campground.  Alaska is so easy to find a campground.  Those who make reservations for a trip like this are doing it wrong, IMHO.  Making reservations ties you up to a schedule.  Weather can effect your schedule and push you to make unrealistic mileages, which can be dangerous.  Campgrounds are everywhere and cheap.  This one in Valdez, was our most expensive, but it was mostly a nice RV park.  It came in at $15/ea.  Most were $5 ea.

 

Here's Scott about to cook up our 'dogs'.  We had it down to routine.  He cooked the 'dogs' or brats, I cooked the chili.  We could get it ready in less than 5 minutes! 

Finished product...gourmet chili dogs!  And of course a nice Cabernet ;-))

I had to take a pic of this Mercedes outfitted Citation.  Patty says she'll go 'camping' in one of these...

Homer (August 2)

One thing about Alaska this time of the year, is that the sun stays up late and rises early.  We were on the road most days by 7 AM. 

 

Here I am, up early, at The House of Harley, working on one of my panniers.  The locks on all my hard bags were giving me problems.  I guess because of all the rain and dirt.  Eventually, I was down to using only the top box and the left side pannier.  Truth be told, the Ducati branded Givi's are worthless.  They are now at my dealer for warranty work.

This is what I may be using for future trips.  Moskow Moto soft bags for adventure moto.

 

After the pannier issue was 'solved', it was time to hit the road for Homer.  Awesome scenery going thru the Chugach National Forest...

For most of Alaska, it's sensory overload, and you just can't stop everywhere for pics, it would take a lifetime.

This is what the scenery was like for most of the drive to Homer.  Pics do not do it justice.  You can't put smell and ambiance into a pic...

Homer...

This is the road into Homer, Scott is in the distance.

Our destination in Homer, was The Homer Spit...

 

"The Homer Spit is a geographical landmark located in Homer, Alaska on the southern tip of the Kenai Peninsula. The spit is a 4.5-mile (7.2 km) long piece of land jutting out into Kachemak Bay.   Features and attractions include The Nick Dudiak Fishing Lagoon, which is an artificial "fishing hole", campgrounds, hotels, and restaurants and the Salty Dawg Saloon, which is constructed out of several historic buildings from Homer.  The Spit features the longest road into ocean waters in the entire world".  Wikipedia

 

 

We set up camp on the southwest corner of 'the spit'.  It was incredible!

Here's a pano of 'the spit' as we were walking back to our campsite, after dinner...lots of shops and bars.

 

Scott had a mission to visit The Salty Dawg, based on his brother's suggestion.  It did not disappoint!  Quite a history this place has.

 

Of course we had to leave our 'dollar'...

For posterity...

Just another great day on this adventure with my good friend Scott!  This whole trip we had a blast!

After our Salty Dawg biers, it was time to find some food.  Since Homer bills itself as The Halibut Fishing Capitol of the World, we thought our chances of finding some fresh halibut or salmon would be pretty good...

All along 'the spit', after the fishing tour boats came in, the fisherman were busy slicing and dicing fish for their clients.  Some would be eaten, most shipped home.

More halibut being sliced up

We found a place to eat, Scott had the halibut, me the salmon, both delicious!  Then it was back to our camp for a nightcap.  Talk about relaxing!

A little campfire action...

Then this guy showed up in our fire!!!  Yikes!

View from my tent as I turn in...a great day...the ride, The Salty Dawg, fresh catch dinner, and nightcap by the campfire, with a killer view. 

Life Is Good!

Talkeetna to Anchorage (August 1)

We hated to leave Talkeetna, actually thought about spending another day/night there.  But we seen most of what the town had to offer and it was time to move on. 

Anchorage is like any other larger city, with shopping centers and residential neighborhoods, but given where we've been the last couple weeks, we seemed out of place.  I didn't much care for Anchorage, the concrete, the buildings, and the traffic. 

However, we did head straight for The House of Harley (Anchorage House of Harley), famous for hosting motorcyclists, no matter what brand you ride.  I can't say enough good things about this dealership and its employees! 

We were given access to their grassy area for camping, codes to access the exterior restroom/shower rooms, and in their parts/service dept, we had all we could eat homemade chili!  This is how dealerships should be run!

The famous 'Bear' in front of the dealership...up to this point it was the only bear we had seen!

After we set up camp, we stepped across the street, to some of the best home cooking I've had in a restaurant...and we saw another 'bear'...

Can't beat $5 for a 4 sampler setup of 7 oz Alaskan biers!  28 oz for $5!  Gotta luv it!

Then is was back to the 'campground' to settle in for the night.

Cozy and quiet.  I think there were 4 of us there that night.

Just a great setup.  Thank you Anchorage House of Harley!!!

After the dealership moved all their bikes inside, Scott and I moved ours under their service canopy.  You just can't beat this setup.  Free camping, free chili, free restrooms/shower, and free protected parking.  Thumbs up!!!

Denali and Talkeetna (July 31)

Fully charged after our last night in the University dorms, laundry done, we were on the road towards Denali, hoping to get a glimpse of Mt. McKinley/Denali.  It is rarely seen because of the weather, but we are hopeful.  On our way we stop for gas and this nice lady comes out to offer us free peanut butter cookies.  Alaskans are nice folks!

Denali...we opted not to take the bus into the preserve.  It is the only way into the park.  So after a couple pics, we were off again, to Talkeetna.

Around Denali there are shops in various areas around the highway.  Princess cruises has a hotel and shops there as well.  Commercialization in the middle of nowhere.  We walked along some of the shops and I met Jermaine, who sells adventure excursions and helicopter rides out of his shop.  He spoke to us for awhile and gave us some stickers for our panniers.

 

This is what the ride looked like most of the way past Denali.  We had no luck sighting the mountain, as it was hidden in the clouds.

However, once we came upon Talkeetna, the weather had turned in our favor.  It was actually quite warm in Talkeetna, low 80's!  Here's a pic of the main street of Talkeetna, looking down the street from our campground.   The campground is a small, municipal park with campsites.  Cool place and can't beat the price at $10 for the campsite!

Enjoying a bier and the weather after dinner.

The town is a throwback to the sixties.  However, at one end, on the outskirts, Princess Cruises has a hotel, next to where their glass topped train stops for a night.

 

But in town itself, it is a Woodstock type atmosphere.  Liquor store sells 'singles'... 

Then walk across the street to a park, and listen to live acoustic guitar music...

Scott and I enjoying biers in the park

When the music died, we were off to the local watering hole...The Talkeetna Inn!

A fun little bar/hotel where locals and tourists mix in a laid back atmosphere...and decent live music later in the evening!

I had a meeting with 'The Mayor' of Talkeetna, in the back of his pickup truck...

After a fun evening of music and spirits, it was back to the campground.  Lots of motorcycle travelers use these campgrounds.  Campsites in Alaska are definitely on the affordable side.  I don't think we paid more than $15 each for a site and often times $5 each.  Most of our monies were spent on food and bier.

Wiseman, The Dalton, and back to Fairbanks (July 30)

We were up early, I think anxious about the ride, knowing we were likely to get 'wet'.  We snapped a couple pics for posterity of our time in Wiseman...

Scott and his GS...

Then on to The Boreal Lodge office for a couple souvenirs...

I picked up some company for Wally...

Then we were off, in the rain, back down The Dalton.  We stopped for fuel for ourselves (apple pie/ice cream) and the bike.  Who do we run into...

...Martin the German.  About Alaska, there aren't a lot of roads up there, so if you meet someone touring through the state, you are likely to keep meeting them.  This happened with a number of riders we met.

We arrived back in Fairbanks and went straight to a self-serve car wash to hose down the bikes.  They were mud balls.  Most of the ride back was in the rain, the road was muddy and slippery.  I was too exhausted to take any more pics.  We just wanted to get back the University dorms, shower, eat, and go to bed.  But we had accomplished our mission.  Both roads we set out to ride, we had now completed.  The Top of the World/TOW and The Dalton/The Haul Road.  Tomorrow it's Denali and south to Talkeetna.