Talkeetna to Anchorage (August 1)

We hated to leave Talkeetna, actually thought about spending another day/night there.  But we seen most of what the town had to offer and it was time to move on. 

Anchorage is like any other larger city, with shopping centers and residential neighborhoods, but given where we've been the last couple weeks, we seemed out of place.  I didn't much care for Anchorage, the concrete, the buildings, and the traffic. 

However, we did head straight for The House of Harley (Anchorage House of Harley), famous for hosting motorcyclists, no matter what brand you ride.  I can't say enough good things about this dealership and its employees! 

We were given access to their grassy area for camping, codes to access the exterior restroom/shower rooms, and in their parts/service dept, we had all we could eat homemade chili!  This is how dealerships should be run!

The famous 'Bear' in front of the dealership...up to this point it was the only bear we had seen!

After we set up camp, we stepped across the street, to some of the best home cooking I've had in a restaurant...and we saw another 'bear'...

Can't beat $5 for a 4 sampler setup of 7 oz Alaskan biers!  28 oz for $5!  Gotta luv it!

Then is was back to the 'campground' to settle in for the night.

Cozy and quiet.  I think there were 4 of us there that night.

Just a great setup.  Thank you Anchorage House of Harley!!!

After the dealership moved all their bikes inside, Scott and I moved ours under their service canopy.  You just can't beat this setup.  Free camping, free chili, free restrooms/shower, and free protected parking.  Thumbs up!!!

Denali and Talkeetna (July 31)

Fully charged after our last night in the University dorms, laundry done, we were on the road towards Denali, hoping to get a glimpse of Mt. McKinley/Denali.  It is rarely seen because of the weather, but we are hopeful.  On our way we stop for gas and this nice lady comes out to offer us free peanut butter cookies.  Alaskans are nice folks!

Denali...we opted not to take the bus into the preserve.  It is the only way into the park.  So after a couple pics, we were off again, to Talkeetna.

Around Denali there are shops in various areas around the highway.  Princess cruises has a hotel and shops there as well.  Commercialization in the middle of nowhere.  We walked along some of the shops and I met Jermaine, who sells adventure excursions and helicopter rides out of his shop.  He spoke to us for awhile and gave us some stickers for our panniers.

 

This is what the ride looked like most of the way past Denali.  We had no luck sighting the mountain, as it was hidden in the clouds.

However, once we came upon Talkeetna, the weather had turned in our favor.  It was actually quite warm in Talkeetna, low 80's!  Here's a pic of the main street of Talkeetna, looking down the street from our campground.   The campground is a small, municipal park with campsites.  Cool place and can't beat the price at $10 for the campsite!

Enjoying a bier and the weather after dinner.

The town is a throwback to the sixties.  However, at one end, on the outskirts, Princess Cruises has a hotel, next to where their glass topped train stops for a night.

 

But in town itself, it is a Woodstock type atmosphere.  Liquor store sells 'singles'... 

Then walk across the street to a park, and listen to live acoustic guitar music...

Scott and I enjoying biers in the park

When the music died, we were off to the local watering hole...The Talkeetna Inn!

A fun little bar/hotel where locals and tourists mix in a laid back atmosphere...and decent live music later in the evening!

I had a meeting with 'The Mayor' of Talkeetna, in the back of his pickup truck...

After a fun evening of music and spirits, it was back to the campground.  Lots of motorcycle travelers use these campgrounds.  Campsites in Alaska are definitely on the affordable side.  I don't think we paid more than $15 each for a site and often times $5 each.  Most of our monies were spent on food and bier.

Wiseman, The Dalton, and back to Fairbanks (July 30)

We were up early, I think anxious about the ride, knowing we were likely to get 'wet'.  We snapped a couple pics for posterity of our time in Wiseman...

Scott and his GS...

Then on to The Boreal Lodge office for a couple souvenirs...

I picked up some company for Wally...

Then we were off, in the rain, back down The Dalton.  We stopped for fuel for ourselves (apple pie/ice cream) and the bike.  Who do we run into...

...Martin the German.  About Alaska, there aren't a lot of roads up there, so if you meet someone touring through the state, you are likely to keep meeting them.  This happened with a number of riders we met.

We arrived back in Fairbanks and went straight to a self-serve car wash to hose down the bikes.  They were mud balls.  Most of the ride back was in the rain, the road was muddy and slippery.  I was too exhausted to take any more pics.  We just wanted to get back the University dorms, shower, eat, and go to bed.  But we had accomplished our mission.  Both roads we set out to ride, we had now completed.  The Top of the World/TOW and The Dalton/The Haul Road.  Tomorrow it's Denali and south to Talkeetna.

The Dalton (July 29)

The Dalton...
"The highway, which directly parallels the pipeline, is one of the most isolated roads in the United States. There are only three towns along the route: Coldfoot (pop 10) at Mile 175, Wiseman (pop 22) at Mile 188, and Deadhorse (25 permanent residents, 3,500-5,000 or more seasonal residents depending on oil production) at the end of the highway at Mile 414. 

Fuel is available at the E. L. Patton Yukon River Bridge (Mile 56), as well as Coldfoot and Deadhorse.  Two other settlements, Prospect Creek and Galbraith Lake, are uninhabited except for seasonal residents.

The road itself is very primitive in places, and small vehicle and motorcycle traffic carries significant risk. The nearest medical facilities are in Fairbanks and Deadhorse.  Anyone embarking on a journey on the Dalton is encouraged to bring survival gear."  Wikipedia

We were up early and out of the dorms.  A mandatory stop for gas, at a Holiday Gas Station no less.  I last saw one of these about 40 years ago, in my hometown, in Iowa.  I thought there were extinct.

Well, we found it, now let's ride it!

The beginning of The Dalton Highway or as it's nicknamed, The Haul Road

There's a nice, pretty sign at the start of the Dalton, but don't be fooled.  The Dalton is one of the more dangerous roads in the world.  A couple of days preceding our ride, there were a couple of motorcycle accidents.  One rider had to be airlifted out. 

Here we go, only 189 miles of mostly potholed dirt and loose rock, until we get to Wiseman

There's a reason The Dalton is called The Haul Road.  Semi's are constantly running equipment back and forth between Prudhoe Bay and the oilfields.  They haul ass!  As they come at and pass you, from the opposite direction, you are covered in a cloud of dirt, that obstructs your vision momentarily, rocks come at you ricocheting off your helmet...in the rain, it's worse, as the road is slippery slime, and as the trucks pass, you are covered in mud.   Again your vision is blurred until you wipe the mud off your visor.  It is exhausting.

In the distance you can see The Alaskan Pipeline, which parallels the road.

The pipeline really is an engineering marvel!

 

It seems to go on forever

The pipeline is supported by posts designed to keep permafrost frozen. Topped with fan-like aluminum radiators, the posts absorb cold from the winter air and transfer it to the soil.  This also allows for the oil to continue to flow down the pipeline in the coldest of conditions.

I hope the 'feds' don't come looking for me.  Some years back, even though the pipeline is mostly bullet proof, a drunk did happen to put a hole in it with a rifle.  He was convicted, sentenced to 16 years and ordered to pay the $17M cleanup bill.  16, 000 gallons of oil leaked before they could shut down the pumps.

Gas is available in two locations up to Wiseman.  This is Yukon Camp and IKRAN getting filled up.

Finger Rock out in the tundra.  I have no idea how it got its name.

We made it!  Scott and I at the Arctic Circle sign. 

Not many Ducati's make it up here.  The BMW GS 1200 is the weapon of choice for most.

The back of the sign is where you sign your name.

I'm now immortalized at The Arctic Circle

On we went to Coldfoot Camp for fuel and food.

I do not drink when I'm riding the bike, but I had to make an exception.  We celebrated with dinner and a few of these tasty brews.

Met Martin here at Coldfoot.  He started out 5 years ago on 1 1/2 year trip.  At the year and a half point he said "screw it" and has been going ever since.  He has literally traveled around the world. 

 

After Coldfoot, it was on to Wiseman, and The Boreal Lodge.  We had reserved a cabin months ago.  This was the only reservation we had make for our whole trip.  Everything else was 'off the cuff'.

Our humble abode for the evening.  Electricity, running water (albeit a cold shower), and a flushing toilet.  Heaven!!!

We went exploring our neighborhood.  Here's an old trading company's cabin.

Inside is a reminder of how folks lived back then and in this harsh environment.

Then you come across something like this.  Inside had a newer headset, radio, and avionics...it flies!

Here's our 'Deliverance' moment.  A beat down cabin back in the bush with this pig pen out front, complete with electric wire around the pen to keep the critters out.  Don't ask me how I found out it was an electric wire :-((

Beautiful scenery in this remote location

This pic was taken around 12:30 AM.  You get about 18 hours of light this time of year.

Then of course, it began to rain.  Does not bode well for tomorrow.