The Dalton (July 29)

The Dalton...
"The highway, which directly parallels the pipeline, is one of the most isolated roads in the United States. There are only three towns along the route: Coldfoot (pop 10) at Mile 175, Wiseman (pop 22) at Mile 188, and Deadhorse (25 permanent residents, 3,500-5,000 or more seasonal residents depending on oil production) at the end of the highway at Mile 414. 

Fuel is available at the E. L. Patton Yukon River Bridge (Mile 56), as well as Coldfoot and Deadhorse.  Two other settlements, Prospect Creek and Galbraith Lake, are uninhabited except for seasonal residents.

The road itself is very primitive in places, and small vehicle and motorcycle traffic carries significant risk. The nearest medical facilities are in Fairbanks and Deadhorse.  Anyone embarking on a journey on the Dalton is encouraged to bring survival gear."  Wikipedia

We were up early and out of the dorms.  A mandatory stop for gas, at a Holiday Gas Station no less.  I last saw one of these about 40 years ago, in my hometown, in Iowa.  I thought there were extinct.

Well, we found it, now let's ride it!

The beginning of The Dalton Highway or as it's nicknamed, The Haul Road

There's a nice, pretty sign at the start of the Dalton, but don't be fooled.  The Dalton is one of the more dangerous roads in the world.  A couple of days preceding our ride, there were a couple of motorcycle accidents.  One rider had to be airlifted out. 

Here we go, only 189 miles of mostly potholed dirt and loose rock, until we get to Wiseman

There's a reason The Dalton is called The Haul Road.  Semi's are constantly running equipment back and forth between Prudhoe Bay and the oilfields.  They haul ass!  As they come at and pass you, from the opposite direction, you are covered in a cloud of dirt, that obstructs your vision momentarily, rocks come at you ricocheting off your helmet...in the rain, it's worse, as the road is slippery slime, and as the trucks pass, you are covered in mud.   Again your vision is blurred until you wipe the mud off your visor.  It is exhausting.

In the distance you can see The Alaskan Pipeline, which parallels the road.

The pipeline really is an engineering marvel!

 

It seems to go on forever

The pipeline is supported by posts designed to keep permafrost frozen. Topped with fan-like aluminum radiators, the posts absorb cold from the winter air and transfer it to the soil.  This also allows for the oil to continue to flow down the pipeline in the coldest of conditions.

I hope the 'feds' don't come looking for me.  Some years back, even though the pipeline is mostly bullet proof, a drunk did happen to put a hole in it with a rifle.  He was convicted, sentenced to 16 years and ordered to pay the $17M cleanup bill.  16, 000 gallons of oil leaked before they could shut down the pumps.

Gas is available in two locations up to Wiseman.  This is Yukon Camp and IKRAN getting filled up.

Finger Rock out in the tundra.  I have no idea how it got its name.

We made it!  Scott and I at the Arctic Circle sign. 

Not many Ducati's make it up here.  The BMW GS 1200 is the weapon of choice for most.

The back of the sign is where you sign your name.

I'm now immortalized at The Arctic Circle

On we went to Coldfoot Camp for fuel and food.

I do not drink when I'm riding the bike, but I had to make an exception.  We celebrated with dinner and a few of these tasty brews.

Met Martin here at Coldfoot.  He started out 5 years ago on 1 1/2 year trip.  At the year and a half point he said "screw it" and has been going ever since.  He has literally traveled around the world. 

 

After Coldfoot, it was on to Wiseman, and The Boreal Lodge.  We had reserved a cabin months ago.  This was the only reservation we had make for our whole trip.  Everything else was 'off the cuff'.

Our humble abode for the evening.  Electricity, running water (albeit a cold shower), and a flushing toilet.  Heaven!!!

We went exploring our neighborhood.  Here's an old trading company's cabin.

Inside is a reminder of how folks lived back then and in this harsh environment.

Then you come across something like this.  Inside had a newer headset, radio, and avionics...it flies!

Here's our 'Deliverance' moment.  A beat down cabin back in the bush with this pig pen out front, complete with electric wire around the pen to keep the critters out.  Don't ask me how I found out it was an electric wire :-((

Beautiful scenery in this remote location

This pic was taken around 12:30 AM.  You get about 18 hours of light this time of year.

Then of course, it began to rain.  Does not bode well for tomorrow.

Fairbanks & Bike Maintenance (July 28)

Today was the day we scheduled for some bike maintenance.  I needed a new rear tire, especially after it took a puncture on the Top of the World Hwy!  Additionally, I decided to get the oil and filter changed.   Scott needed both of his tires changed.  A bit about Adventure Cycle Works, which is run by 'Dan'.  He runs the business out of his garage (clean and fully functional) and comes highly recommended by the Adventure Riding Community (AdvRider.com, etc).  He is open 24/7, 7 days a week.  He is also way cheaper than the other service options (dealers) in Fairbanks...for both labor and tires.  I give him 5 stars!!!

We arrived around 9 am and IKRAN was on the lift in minutes.  About an hour and half later I had a new tire, oil/filter change, and chain service.  He also takes the time to check your brakes, clutch, etc.  Scott was next and an hour later he was done.

IKRAN in the air minutes after we arrive!

 

Some road tar that had wedged its way into the area around where the slip-on attaches to the midpipe, making removal a b***h.  If you happen to visit Dan, be prepared to hear some very colorful language...LOL!

New rear shoe going on!

 

IKRAN serviced and ready to attack The Dalton tomorrow morning!

 

The old 'shoe' with the plug

 

The plugged puncture spot

 

 

With the bikes shod with new tires, it was back to the dorms at the University.  Of course we rode back in the rain.  Aside from the price and convenience of the dorms, it was also nice being able to see the bikes from our rooms.

Later that evening we had dinner with Gretchen.  We had all worked together at Los Angeles Center Air Route Traffic Control Center and we're all now retired.  Gretchen was in Fairbanks, with her sister, to visit her nephew, who was stationed in Fairbanks, in the US Army.  Then it was back to the dorms for a good night's sleep, tomorrow is The Dalton...

Dawson City to Chicken to Tok to Fairbanks (July 25-27)

After spending a fun evening listening to and visiting with The Piano Man, it was time to hit the road the next morning.  This was the day we tackle The Top of the World Hwy or The TOW as it is affectionately called.  As we are getting gas, this guy and his best buddy pulled up.  You meet and see the funnest people on these trips!

After gassing up, it was off to catch another ferry ride.  This one, out of Dawson City, takes us to the beginning of The TOW.  187 miles of mostly dirt, through desolate highlands, finally into TOK, AK.

This ferry is free and doesn't hold a lot, this trip was just the big motorhome, a large van, and the two of us on our cycles.

The ride is short and you are not allowed to dismount.

This is a pic of the ferry we disembarked from, now reloading, and taking people to the Dawson City side.

As we rode away, I looked back to see the line of motorhomes waiting to cross from Dawson City.

The beginning of The TOW...

We met another rider, one of only three bikes we saw on the TOW.  And thank God we met up with the other two!!!

More of the TOW.  Top of the World is a fitting name.  The road seems to be on top of the world.  The views are endless.  We even saw a herd of caribou!

Then it happened...about midway, 90 miles either direction from any civilization, I get a flat tire.

My first flat tire on a motorcycle in about 40 years of riding!  There is no one around, I think I've popped the seal on a run in with a deep pot hole.  A motor home stops, we try his compressor, no luck.  We can not find a puncture, if it's the a blown bead, I'm in real trouble.  He doesn't want to leave us stranded, but there is nothing he can do.  He says he'll tell the border patrol when he gets there.  We can't just stay put, even though it will stay light until midnight, we can't risk doing nothing.  I decide to ride on the flat.  Can't just stay there.  I do about 6 miles at 8 mph.  It is brutal on me and the bike.  We stop for a break and two bikes come up over the hill towards us and I step out and flag them down.  

Here I am, with what I think is the last pic that will ever be taken of me.  Someday they will find my bike and bones, but then Tom and Claus ride in like knights in shining armour!

Wounded IKRAN...

Tom and Claus to he rescue!  Tom gives classed on Adventure Riding and sure enough he is able to located the problem.  While we all thought I was screwed with a popped bead seal, Tom found a puncture.  From there it was just a matter of plugging the puncture and using Tom's compressor to fill the tire.  My guardian angel was looking out for me this day.  Truth be told, while this could have turned out really bad, this is what makes a ride an adventure...when you take on a ride like this, there will be 'trying times' and in a sick sort of way, that's the fun of it...

We all rode together (safety concern) until the border and into Chicken, AK.  At this border crossing there are both Canadian and US agents.  The US agent told me that the motorhome guy did let him know of my dilemma, but the gentleman did not give him enough info to act on...other than somewhere out there was a stranded guy on a motorcycle.  Yikes!  

At the border crossing from Canada into the USA

The old, very casual, US border 'office'...after 9/11 I think they built the new, more modern building for the US guys.  In the 'old' days the US border guy would be up there BBQing, come down and have a short conversation with you, then back to his BBQ.  Not anymore.

After we crossed this is the view going into the USA.  There must have been a bunch of surplus monies somewhere, because for whatever reason, there are 13 miles of pavement into the US, then back to gravel.  Guess they needed that 13 miles.

Arrival Chicken, AK...eclectic little village with gas, a bar, and souvenir shop.  It was at this point that Tom and Claus figured my tire was going to hold as they departed ahead of us.

Claus, Scott, myself, and Tom in Chicken, AK

The Chicken Saloon

 

Cafe

And souvenir shop.  They also offer free camping behind the shops.  The rain once again started up and we hit the road towards TOK

We saw this moose and her litle one in the lake.  At this point we've seen 6 moose and zero bears

Arrived safe and sound in TOK, located the much acclaimed Eagle Claw Motorcycle Campground, and sett up camp...and another gourmet meal

We are getting used to these chili dogs!  After a day like today it was a feast, topped of with our favorite Alaskan Ale!

Relaxing campside...

Then of course it began to rain and it was off the the shelter of the tents.  Here's the comfort of my Nemo Losi 2 Person 3 Season tent.  Purchased new for this trip, as it was much smaller and lighter, than the 4 season 4 person tent, I had used for last year's trip.

It's surprising how comforting and relaxing it is listening to the beating of rain on a tent, but it is, and I got a great night's sleep.  In the morning we were off to Fairbanks, but on the way we stopped off at The North Pole to deliver our Christmas 'wish lists' to Santa

Santa's House

Mural and tilework on the side of Santa's House

Cool pics...

The map below shows the ground we've covered since leaving Scott's place in Idaho.  I think he's got about 2700 miles on the clock and I'm a bit over 4000.  Wednesday we assault The Dalton or more apptly named, The Haul Road, for the trucks that are constantly traveling the road to Prudhoe Bay and the oil fields.  The road is the second of the two roads that were on our 'to do' list.  The first being the TOW.  The Dalton is a dangerous trek north.  We will only be going to The Arctic Circle, located at Coldfoot.  Because we do not want to make this a round trip in one day affair, we will travel a bit further past Coldfoot, to Wiseman, where we have a cabin reserved on Wednesday night.  Roundtrip it is somewhere around 500 miles.  We will return to Fairbanks on Thursday, then make our way south to the Kenai Pennisnsula.

As of this writing, we are holed up in the dormitories, at the University of Alaska Fairbanks.  While school is out for the summer, they rent out the dorm rooms for cheap.  It's a great set up with access to food, shower facilities, free laundry, and wifi.  

As I am typing this, Scott has come into my room and advised me he has spoken to a rider who just got back from 'doing' The Dalton.  He started in a group of 10 riders, 8 turned back, he saw two motorcycle wrecks, one guy airlifted out.

To be continued...